Manifest Memoirs
"I lived off coffee for the year leading up to this. Obsessing over the big box on the checklist waiting to be marked. Tuning my skills and craft hoping that one day I would be in transit towards the Eastern Cape Province of South Africa. The wonder of Jeffreys Bay consumed my mind. How fast? How Long? How perfect? Hoping that when the day comes I would be ready. Two weeks before August my ticket was booked and it was time to accumulate all of the experiences from my surfing life. Frantically verging on spastically I spent long hours in the tin box I call my shaping and glassing room. Among the toxicity I rounded out my quiver, a 5’3 fish, 6’8 bonzer, and a 7’3 single fin. These would be the tools of enjoyment for the endless South African lines. After a delusional amount of hours I woke up in Africa. The sunrises look different there. Everything looks different there, and as the sun popped over the mountains it illuminated organized magic. I stood at the top of the point, mesmerized." - Derrick Disney
Photos: Jack Coleman
