Clean water. A beautiful site to behold. And plenty worth protecting... Photo: Patrick Ruddy
I have this theory that surfing is one of the most selfish things a person can do. Of course, there are those moments where surfing with friends is rewarding, and, in fact, I find it almost as fun watching someone get a great wave as I do getting one myself. The operative word there, however, is almost. No matter how rewarding it is watching a friend pull into a great looking wave, I’d rather it was me on it. That’s selfish. I’m selfish when it comes to surfing. And I’m not the only one; surfers scratch for waves, doing things they’d probably never do in a parking lot, dropping in, stealing waves, or claiming local status.
Surfing has always held a certain something for those interested in solitude. A crowded lineup is one of the main complaints around the world. No one likes to share waves, myself included. Continue reading.....