10/21/14

little perfect peelers

"it's Autobahn, Kraftwerk ...27 minutes in"



Derek Hynd and Andrew Kidman seem to have an understanding. Exemplified in this Surfer's Journal original, Bottling the Moment, which Kidman penned, the pair of minds track parallel.
Here, in this first of a two-part Andrew Kidman directed short, Derek walks Kidman/us through the deconstruction and rebirth of a finless surfboard, while Andrew's youngsters augment the experience with emotive notes on an electric organ.
As the organ preaches to the beast and foul in the bush beyond the house, Hynd rips apart a perfectly good Lis-ish fish, and rebuilds it for finless sliding. Channeling his oldest friend, Dale Egan, one of Derek's inspirations for leaving the keels on the beach, Hynd creates something very new out of something old.
As Kidman noted in an email correspondence that Hynd is completely committed to finless surfing. Hasn't ridden a board with a fin in years. It's an experience which has led Derek to wonder, in a Morey-esque mind expanding inquiry, "where would surfing have gone without the linearity of the fin?"
In part two, we see Derek take apart the local beach break, and we get a glimpse.
POV Shorts II is a 10-part video series, from surf filmmakers Chris Malloy, Tyler Manson, Joe G, Andrew Kidman and Cyrus Sutton. Each filmmaker has taken on one subject within a general framework, but subject to their interpretation. The shorts will be released over the course of the summer, 2011. Have a look around our video channel for the others, or check back soon as more are released.




Here, in this second of a two-part Andrew Kidman directed short, Derek displays his deconstructed finless surfboard in action in some darn fine beachbreak. We're still not quite sure how he manages rail gouging redirects without the aid of the blade.
As Kidman noted in an email correspondence that Hynd is completely committed to finless surfing. Hasn't ridden a board with a fin in years. It's an experience which has led Derek to wonder, in a Morey-esque mind expanding inquiry, "where would surfing have gone without the linearity of the fin?"
POV Shorts II is a 10-part video series, from surf filmmakers Chris Malloy, Tyler Manson, Joe G, Andrew Kidman and Cyrus Sutton. Each filmmaker has taken on one subject within a general framework, but subject to their interpretation. The shorts will be released over the course of the summer, 2011. Have a look around our video channel for the others, or check back soon as more are released.




He likes to hear himself...

10/20/14

porch light 544 corrugated...




skimming the Right..




http://stabmag.com/brad-domke-just-rode-the-right-on-a-skimboard/



kids have been standing on boogie boards for years and skim boarding waves "friction free" without
calling it jazz.







About a month ago, Michael Lawrence and the guys from Garage Entertainment brought me in and said they wanted to show me something. Without saying anymore they just handed me this VR headset, I put it on. I was totally blown away. All of a sudden I was transported to sitting at the edge of a lake, to flying a helicopter, to this beautiful villa in Europe within a matter of minutes. 
It was crazy! Then I had the thought - "Wow !  What if you could take some one inside a barrel with this?" This was exactly the reaction the boys from Garage Entertainment wanted me to have. From that moment we were on a mission to make this happen.
It just so happened that 2 brothers Bruce and Rob Allan from Triggar had just built a water proof 360 camera rig and were actually willing to let me hold it in a 15ft wave. I had hoped to test the camera in small barrels first but the first swell to pop up on the charts ended up being at the "The Right” and I just couldn’t help myself. 
That day down at The Right the swell didn’t kick in until super late in the afternoon so It was a race to get waves before the sun went down. I had a couple of average waves and it was already getting dark. My heart was sinking. 
My friend Brad Domke (professional Skim Boarder) was next in line when a bomb set reared up. He started to tow into it and i just couldn’t help myself. I yelled out to Phil Read my tow partner "Go Go! Tow me behind him."  I had seen footage of Domke making the the craziest waves lately so i figured there was a good chance he would make it. 
The barrel at The Right is so big so I figured that there would be plenty of room for both of us. It all happened so fast. I just remember coming into the wave and thinking “I’m on the perfect line here. There is plenty of room between the 2 of us”. Then I saw him struggling to deal with the water drawing off the reef as the wave was sucking up.  
At that moment I was like “Oh no” - but I held my nerve and my line and just ducked as low as I could hoping he wouldn’t drop on my head! I saw his board fly by then out of the corner of my eye I saw him. It was like he was falling out of the sky. The scene was so strange a picture of it is tattooed in my head.
Because I was crouching so low as I was coming out of the barrel my arm holding the camera caught the face of the wave and sent me spinning. By then the serious danger had passed and I was rolling around underwater laughing at the sight of Brad doing his mid air running man in the barrel! 
The PoV footage and 360 platform are so cool but I can’t wait until people get to put on the Virtual Reality headset and have this experience for the first time. I think it's going to make a lot of people take up surfing... maybe not behind skim boarder in 12 foot barrels though! 

gun control






































sawed off bonzer gun...
the word play has just beGUN...
7'2- 19"- 2 1/2"... for now...

burch

oh mercy me...



heaven's to mergatroid



10/19/14












Tony Allen Announces New Album, Shares "Go Back" Featuring Damon Albarn

It's out in October

By Jeremy Gordon on July 2, 2014 at 10:15 a.m. EDT

Tony Allen Announces New Album, Shares
Legendary drummer Tony Allen has shared "Go Back", a new song that features vocals and keyboards from Damon Albarn. Listen to it below. It's from a new album called Film of Life, which is out in October via Jazz Village. Below, you can watch a short teaser for the album.
Previously, Allen and Albarn were members of the Good, The Bad, & The Queen and Rocket Juice & the Moon, and collaborated on Allen's Home Cooking and Albarn's Africa Express project.
"Go Back":
Film of Life teaser: 
Tony Oladipo Allen (born 1940 in Lagos, Nigeria) is a Nigerian drummer, composer and songwriter who currently lives in Paris. His career and life story have been documented in his 2013 autobiography Tony Allen: Master Drummer of Afrobeat, co-written with author/musician Michael E. Veal who previously wrote a comprehensive biography of Fela Kuti.[1]
As drummer and musical director of Fela Anikulapo Kuti's band Africa 70 from 1968 to 1979, Allen was one of the primary co-founders of the genre of Afrobeat music. Fela once stated that, "without Tony Allen, there would be no Afrobeat."[2] He has also been described byBrian Eno as "perhaps the greatest drummer who has ever lived."[3]