At first glance he was a moron. Mabe he still is one, but when this guy paddled into mid 50 degree winter water and 10-15 knot santa ana winds with no wetsuit, a board that could've easily come out of the trash and surfed better than anyone, there was something very free and punk rock about it.
He did'nt say a word nor mumble insanely, yet the penciled in 'caption cloud' above his head I read was something like, "I don't need your stinkeen roools man."
Course, he did'nt say a thing or act strange in any other way.
Not really a big deal, but odd for today.